2.24.98

It's good to be alive!

I love riding the bus. Saturday, Dave and I rode the bus back and forth across town running errands, meeting people, etc. The pride in knowing bus stops, bus routes, various bus fares in a city this size is well-earned. Getting on and off buses in Seoul is consistently easy: Fare paid on the way in the front door, exit through the back. It never deviates so there is no rush to see if the fare should be paid on the way in, or to determine through which door one should exit. However, nowhere are the routes published in English. If you can’t read Korean, then it’s impossible to know where any one bus is going. If you can read Korean, then you have to be able to read it fast enough as the bus zooms by. Even then, the destination listed on the front usually encompasses a fairly large area and it may not stop where you want it to; of course, you would have no idea where it stops in between. Unless a passenger rings to get off, the buses won’t stop to pick up passengers unless they’re flagged down, as if they were taxis. There are many kinds of buses: City/Standing Buses currently cost about 32 cents. Some are brand new while others seem to be held together by only the grimy black pollution collected at the metal seams. They are all dented and beat to hell from the crazy traffic. The old ones have just one row of seats along each side, some of which are nearly impossible to squeeze into because of their position over a wheel or behind the driver. Still people of all sizes slide in, including me with my knees at my chin, otherwise you have to stand. The new ones have single seats all the way back to the exit door, then double seats thereafter. Both old and new have one long bench for a back seat that is elevated above all the others. It's the best seat in the bang (room) because of the view and because the back end really whips around and you feel all the curves and bumps. Let's you get the most for your money. City buses are the most common and I spend most of my time out of my apartment encased in one of them. Express/Seat Buses are more luxurious and consist of two qualities: One currently sets you back around 65 cents, the other at 69 cents. The cheaper of the two has double seats all the way back, just like the kind of bus you might charter in the States. Except, this kind is old and grimy. The more expensive one is super luxurious and new. In the summer I try to take these as much as possible because they are so comfortably naengbang (air conditioned). There are even little neighborhood buses that cart people to and from larger routes. These currently run about 20 cents. I hardly ever use these because I live next to a major bus route and a subway station. I am familiar with buses that travel to places where I usually go. I almost never take the subway anymore and grimace at the thought of spending 40 minutes to an hour underground. Above ground there are always signs, people, other moving vehicles, and buildings to view while listening to music. It is always like living in a music video. (Don't I always mention that? Well, it's because is such a great experience.) I can’t get enough and dread having to get off eventually. Saturday I grabbed 78-3 (City bus, new, sat in the back seat) to Itaewon to meet Dave, who had waited too long beneath McDonald’s, becoming chilled to the bone, and was never able to warm up the rest of the day. We went to the travel agent to see where we could fly with our United Airlines credit. Turns out it’s either Osaka or San Francisco. We’re looking into Osaka. Caught 45 (Express, super deluxe, sat behind exit door) to Kwangwhamun where we plowed through the Saturday crowds at Kyobo to pick up the Lonely Planet book for Japan. Back outside we waited only moments for 83-1 (City bus, old, sat in back) which wound its way up past Namdaemun market, Nam mountain, then down passed the Hyatt to UN Village, where we got off and walked to the Puffin Café for REAL espresso and steamed chocolate moo (complete with whipped cream). The Europeans and Koreans smoking like chimneys drove us out of there faster than we would’ve liked. We caught a passing 81 (city bus, new, almost sat in a seat that had someone’s discarded dried fish snack, but instead chose the double seat over the rear wheel, legs up to our chins). I was sure this bus would take us to Itaewon, but the route is funky and is almost circular but not quite and I got confused. The route ended after a mile, leaving us another mile to walk to our destination, which we did. A nice walk through a run down foreigner’s district. It was easy to imagine the hustle and bustle that must have characterized it in the 70’s and 80’s when foreigners were just beginning to flock here. Now it looks modern-vintage Korea. Met some friends at the new Mexican restaurant in Itaewon called Poncho’s. We ate and I was the only one who enjoyed my food. The restaurant didn’t have salsa so they used spaghetti sauce. On my dish it was perfect because all I had was a tortilla stuffed with fried onions covered with the sauce and some cheddar cheese. Mmm. So it wasn’t exactly Mexican, but it still tasted good. Each dish was served with a side of fried rice and a dab of barely heated from-the-can refried beans (just the way I eat them at home). We drank overpriced, imported Guinness in cans and chatted. Dave and I left around 10pm and waited only a few minutes for 78-3 (city, new, sat in the first double seat in front of the rear wheel). About half way through the route, the bus driver stopped the bus, walked back behind us and shoved a street guy, red faced and unkempt, who was asleep. Bus driver told the guy to get off. The guy yelled back profanely. Walking back up to his seat, the bus driver took offense, turned red, and started yelling too. The bus lurched forward. Behind us, now very awake, street guy screamed; I hoped the seat space between him and us was sufficient enough that his spittle could arc and careen toward the floor instead of bombarding the back of our coats. Eventually he staggered to the door, swearing. I guess it was pretty bad because a passenger started yelling at him too. Street guy lunged at the passenger, but thought better of it at the last second, and stumbled down the steps to the street instead. Then he changed his mind and tried to get back on but the door closed on him, snuffing his momentum. That was enough for him, I guess: He got off for good, but pounded on the bus and chased after it as we took off for home. Today on the bus, I was so happy just being that I entertained the thought of skipping home leave altogether this year and going to China instead.

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