Is it day 4 already? I can't remember.

We were in all day today.

It was spa day. Y scheduled women to come do pedicures, manicures, and facials. Pretty decadent... but cheap! Like, the facial was $12 or so! You have to provide your own supplies, but supplies are cheap everywhere. Labor is cheap in China. Although we didn't have the confusing array of products available at your local, overpriced spa, the work done was superior to any spa I've patronized. The facial especially.

The woman giving the facial spared no strength with the back massage and accupressure. It was AMAZING. I said as much. I think she got the gist.

My toenails are red now, and my fingernails are buffed flawless.

Earlier I went for my first run. I discovered I forgot a sports bra (I have no idea how—I totally remember grabbing it. Maybe the TSA took it?). I have to wear my new (not fancy) Chantelle if I want to go. :-(

The air burns when you breathe it deep, and after a little while your mouth tastes metallic. It's really very disturbing.

I didn't make it around the compound. The road became quite rural and I wasn't sure of the direction. I have trouble sensing direction here because it is so flat and featureless. I've been disoriented much of the time and few maps are around since Y already knows her way. This is very frustrating for me. Anyway, I ran into a European guy (ran into!) out for a toxic jog who explained the route for me. I'll try it next time.

Today is a holiday. It's the autumn moon festival. Time to eat mooncakes!! Although, we have not had any today. We have had, instead, falafel sandwiches and Indian food. Crazy expat living! In a half hour though, we are going "into town" to a bar, from which we should be able to gaze at the moon. I'm doubtful of a lunar sighting, judging from the thickness of the haze. I did not see the sun at all today.

Tomorrow I am thinking I'll visit Tiananmen square and Mao's mausoleum. The square was closed when I was here last.

I don't even know where we went—the lake district I think. A little north and west of the Forbidden City. The area is freshly developed. A Starbucks hosts the entrance and the traffic is thick with first visits. We sat at a table beside the lake next to Starbucks and talked about things. Mostly nonpolitical topics. We watched trendy Beijingers of all ages stroll past. When we got too cold, we joined the flow. No moon, but the lake was awash in the big red orb lanterns, both hanging from the eaves of the nouveau imperial-style buildings and reflecting off the water. It was gorgeous and festive and fucked with my ideas of what a communist country looks like. No one wears Mao suits anymore. A few old guys here and there, sure. Otherwise, they're gone. In five years, the country got a new wardrobe, a new raison d'etre.